Friday 15 June 2007

Day 5 - Belorado to Burgos









Start as usual; wake up with the other pilgrims. The biggest difference this time was the fact that the Swiss organisation that runs the Refugio we were staying at offered breakfast to those interested. We were. Nevertheless we were still pushed out of the door at 8h00 (from then to 12h00 they clean the place and then open up again for a new flow of incoming pilgrims). By the way, the place we stayed at was a small building linked to the church of Belorado (a very small village) and was previously used as the village theatre. Nowadays the only acts on stage are the one of snoring pilgrims and the croaking of the storcks on the church roofs. We all have earplugs with us, started to enjoy using them, and consequently do not wake up that often during the night.
Start as usual; first we (Richard that is) repaired a new flat tyre. This time it was Richard´s though, not Jan´s.
Today there was no rain. Not a drop. Lots of clouds threatening us and not very hot (18 degrees). No rain, but as much wind as you want. Head-on. The whole day long, the typical westerly wind you would find in the Flemish or Dutch polders. Both during the climbing and the down-hill it slowed us down dramtically.
Every 2 hours we stop for a fill-up on calories. Usually at the typical local bars in the villages we pass through. The bars survive on pilgrims like us (and some truck-drivers for the lucky ones). We live on tortilla (the spanish mixture of patotoes and omelette), or any other local sandwiches on offer. Today Jan had the pleasure of finding his childhood favourite of ´blood-sausage´(Black Pudding).
The usual climbs, long and steep. Rocky surfaces, then mud at the end of each down-hill which saps our energy and kills our speed. It´s hard to keep the front wheel on the ground. It´s hard not to let the rear wheel slip away. Did we mention the wind already? The wind that drowns out all other sounds. Trucks from behind, a few of the better trained mountain-bikers. And the same goes for the other pilgrims, the walking kind. The road is small and we cannot simply pass them at full speed. We have to approach them carefully, not to scare them. We whistle or call "ola" or something similar. It´s their camino too! Buen Camino for all!
We did reach our goal for today: Burgos. The last 15 km were the least interesting we have seen till now (honestly they were bloody awful!). Entering the imense industrial area, entering the outskirts of the city (it took at least half an hour), not to mention the traffic lights (internationally the same, always red). But we did visit the cathedral! The biggest, most amazing, impressive, huge, rich cathedral we´ve seen for a long time (maybe only Rome can beat it). And then we went for our usual stroll around the city, had a bite at some tapas bars and sipped some of the local wine, Rioja.
Day5: 51km, 4 hours. Tomorrow we enter the plateau called the "meseta".

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